Nicholas Kirkwood Has Miami on His Mind
Shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood finds inspiration in the dynamic culture of 1960s South Florida.
February 04, 2013
FROM LEFT: Nicholas Kirkwood for Peter Pilotto silk heel ($1,295); Ocean-blue suede heel ($1,100)
The fashion world has been abuzz about Nicholas Kirkwood for the past several months: The 32-year-old shoe designer scored the highly coveted task of designing footwear for the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, took home the British Fashion Awards’ Accessory Designer of the Year Award for a second time, and debuted a devilishly stylish collection of men’s shoes during last month’s men’s Fashion Week. Not unlike his British compatriots, Kirkwood’s design aesthetic is innovative—albeit radical—and his eponymous shoe line is known for its intricate embroidery and dramatic silhouettes. “I design for the girl who appreciates an architectural construction, someone who doesn’t necessarily follow the norm or what they’re being told to wear in the fashion magazines,” he says. For spring, the collection features a highly conceptualized wave motif, iridescent stones cheekily resembling sea foam, and a generous amount of colored metallics. “The color palette is made up of very vibrant, pastel colors reminiscent of early ’60s Palm Beach,” Kirkwood explains.
Miami’s Art Deco architecture appears not only in the collection’s bold hues, but also in geometric cutouts, sculpted heels, and zigzag patterns. In addition to Kirkwood’s signature sky-high stilettos and ladylike flats, the label is debuting a new 55mm heel. “Last year was really high or flat, but this season, we are introducing a new heel height. It is a balance between fashion and comfort. It is very hard to make a mid-height heel appealing, but I think this structure will really appeal to the fashion girl and to the function girl,” asserts the designer, who will make a personal appearance at Saks Fifth Avenue at Bal Harbour Shops February 6. Standout styles include a bright-blue open-toe slingback with an aqua wave spanning each side, and a black and white cuff stiletto with a basket-weave toe-box and similarly colored beaded laces. Saks Fifth Avenue, Bal Harbour Shops, 9700 Collins Ave., 305-865-1100