Miami Eateries Redefining American Cuisine: Exit 1 Food and Drink
Hidden inside the Towers of Key Biscayne residential complex, and helmed by co-owner and chef Jeremy Goldberg and his wife, Paola, (who are also behind the celebrated Route 9 in Coral Gables), this restaurant emphasizes American regional favorites, with light nods to the poly-flavored cuisines of Miami’s international communities.
The dish that best represents the restaurant?
Our braised veal cheeks. Using a secondary, often unused protein (the most tender part of the animal) and classic one-pot cookery technique, it represents the resourceful, frugal cooking that characterized American cuisine. The Manchego cheese [in the dish] brings out the Latin influence of Miami.
The American tradition or region your restaurant is based on?
Miami, Miami, Miami. While we consider our restaurant American-style, we love the influence that all of the cultures down here bring to the plate.
Your chef mentor?
Anthony Bourdain really changed how I saw the restaurant world when I read Kitchen Confidential months before starting at The Culinary Institute of America. I admire his willingness to break the traditional path based on his own passions.
Your dog-eared kitchen cookbook?
Ideas in Food: Great Recipes and Why They Work by Aki Kamozawa, and Culinary Institute of America’s The Professional Chef. They’re complete opposites in that Pro Chef is focused on the traditional cooking techniques, while Ideas in Food teaches me to think about food experimentally.
The music at your restaurant?
Based on the time and clientele at the tables and bar, you’ll hear everything from The Allman Brothers Band to John Coltrane.
Earliest childhood memory involving American food?
Tailgating at Giants stadium. I hate the team, but I love their parking lot. I have great memories firing up the grill and knocking out chili, burgers, steaks, and lobsters. Nothing says American food like a good old barbecue!
The meal you’ll never forget?
Besides that crap they served at my bar mitzvah? Probably grilling the freshest fish possible on the back of a catamaran in the British Virgin Islands with friends.
The chef you’d most like to share the kitchen with?
My wife, Paola. Julia Child could make it a threesome.
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