LEFT: A look from Alexander McQueen’s Spring 2012 collection. CENTER: A look from Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring 2012 collection. RIGHT: A look from Mary Katrantzou’s Spring 2012 collection
Creatures of the deep roamed the runways at Alexander McQueen, decked in intricate lace headpieces and coral reef-like couture. We saw the softer side of the sea at Chanel, with pastels aplenty, from elaborate earpieces and jeweled cuffs to myriad seafoam greens. Giuseppe Zanotti and Lanvin showcased how much marine life really can sparkle, with beaded sky-high wedges and shiny brass seashell bags. Crop tops were ubiquitous as well, as Versace glammed them up with black and gold detailing; Dolce & Gabbana modernized classic cuts fit for the ’50s; and Pucci dressed them with lots of lace. On the tech side, Greek-born Mary Katrantzou’s trademark hyperrealist prints came straight from the digital universe—and we’re sure to see some of these prints pop up in her Spring collaborations with Topshop and Longchamp, too. But Nicole Miller and Hermès stuck to a more literal translation of the computer age, incorporating bold boxes and lines seemingly lifted off of a motherboard. Here, three local experts discuss the surge of sea-life, midriffs, and digital prints, and how they’ll fit in perfectly with the Magic City’s sun-friendly style.
Laure Hériard Dubreuil
CEO and founding partner of The Webster
What do you like about spring’s marine trend?
LHD: Loving the ocean and always being near it in Miami, it’s fun to see how designers have taken little things like shells and fish scales and turned them into entire collections.
How does the trend suit Miami?
LHD: Just thinking of Ocean Drive and then seeing the collections—with all their pastel blues, pinks, and yellows, and the tropical prints—they all just fit the city so well. It’s almost as if Miami was the inspiration for all the collections.
How would you wear it?
LHD: Riding my bike through South Pointe Park in Stella McCartney palm tree-print shorts, or going to dinner in a Theyskens Theory drop-waist sequin tank dress. The sea-inspired looks work for both day and night.
Which will you carry at The Webster?
LHD: We’re going to have the beautiful sequin dresses from Givenchy that look like fish. Chanel did the whole collection in pastels and ecru and even one dress with pleats that look like seashells.
Riffing on the Middle
Erika Sussman Cohen, co-owner, Alchemist 438 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach, 305-531-4653.
Why are midriffs hot for spring?
The midriff moment is definitely back. They seemed to be on everybody’s mind for spring, from the Lady Gaga-esque looks at Versace to the surprising, chic versions at Prada. But my favorites were definitely by Pucci. I loved all the gypsy-inspired lace and embroidery.
Why do they work well in Miami?
LHD: Miami is the perfect setting to wear this look almost year-round, but a golden tan and near-perfect waistline are definite prerequisites!
How would you wear this look?
LHD: The key to pulling off this season’s midriff trend is to pair it with a higher-waisted silhouette. I especially like the idea of a long skirt. The rest of the body is covered, so you just have a sliver of sexiness. The look is almost demure, where in other ways it could look trashy. I think it can be worn everywhere, especially if Gwyneth could rock it on the red carpet of the Emmys.
What are some midriff looks you’ll carry at Alchemist?
LHD: We will have versions from Pucci and Versace on hand this season.
Why are digital prints so hot for spring?
DH: Because they are unique, modern, fun, and bring us an original vision of each designer’s artistic expression, giving us a product that we can relate directly to a brand.
Why is the trend well-suited to Miami?
DH: Just like the Magic City, these styles are very playful, distinctive, innovative, and above all lots of fun.
Where would you wear it?
DH: During the day for a casual look or dressed up for night, as in a beautiful gown (Alexander McQueen, for example). We style them in many different ways: print on print—which is a huge trend this year—or with solid-color pieces to create a more conservative look.
What are some digital prints you’ll carry at Curve?
DH: Carven, Alexander McQueen, Balmain, Pierre Balmain, Christopher Kane, Iro, Isabel Marant, and Helmut Lang.