Small Plate Wonders at The Setai

January 09, 2012 | Food & Drink News

Since opening six-and-a-half years ago, The Setai has brilliantly maintained its reputation as a hub of all things highend, thanks in no small part to the consistently delicious cuisine and superb service at its on-site eateries, both helmed by executive chef David Werly. Never one to rest on its laurels, the hotel is constantly reinventing itself in a culinary sense with fresh concepts and flavors. Case in point: There’s a new menu at The Grill—The Setai’s more casual, European, tapas-style outpost, whose succulent fare is often eclipsed by the pan-Asian experience at The Restaurant. While the vibe at The Grill has always felt more informal than its fine-dining counterpart’s, they stand shoulder-to-shoulder in terms of sophistication. Its sumptuous selection of dry-cured hams and cheeses (nibble on 36-month paleta de bellota and Morbier), plus a fresh raw bar and Spanish-, French-, and Italian-inspired small plates meant to be shared. Among our favorites: the suckling pig, the roasted sweetbreads with peas, celeriac, and chanterelle mushrooms, and the homemade cocoa pappardelle—a decadent dish that almost doubles as dessert. 2001 Collins Ave., Miami Beach, 305-520-6400

PHOTOGRAPH BY GREG CLARK

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