Tosca Elevates Fine Dining

December 03, 2012 | by —bill kearney
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JARMO POHJANIEMI/SHOOT THE CENTERFOLD INC.
| Food & Drink News

Tosca, owned by Stephan Fortier, the man behind the now-defunct, swoon-inducing Maison d’Azur in the Angler’s Hotel, is a restaurant that one can’t help but think has something to prove. Before opening recently in the former Eden locale on 23rd Street, Tosca management didn’t merely remodel; instead they gutted the space (to the astonishment of the landlord), exchanging the entire seating area for an open kitchen buttressed by a lavish seafood display, a case full of Parma and pata negra ham hocks, and quite rare 100-year-old balsamic vinegar. Seating is now in the rear; stroll along a brick walkway under leafy bowers to a garden with a film nook, wishing fountain, and an enclosable indoor/outdoor dining room heavy on leather. The mostly European staff is proud of the fact that there are only 20 tables—and apparently no rush to turn them over. But really, it’s the menu that gets showy. Smaller plates include a toro just barely flamed, then treated gingerly with Mediterranean herbs, oil, and sea salt; A5 grade Kobe beef with level 12 marbling used for both tartare with caviar and for a rib-eye entrée; and a salumeria boasting acorn-fed pata negra de bellota aged 36 months. If it’s panache you want, order the fettuccine; servers torch the inside of a Parmesan wheel, toss the pasta within, then plate it at the table with shaved white Alba truffles—its flavor is a thing of fleeting beauty best devoured quickly, which means you won’t have a chance to one-up anyone on Instagram. But maybe it’s better that way. 210 23rd St., Miami Beach, 786-216-7230

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