Viva Italia!

February 06, 2012 | by —elizabeth tracy | Food & Drink News

The less cluttered a gallery wall is, the more the art can shine. Salumeria 104 takes the same tack with its Italian fare, letting it stand on its quite ample merits without fuss or distraction. This little salumi shop/Italian market/eatery in Midtown, which opened in December, is the latest venture by the Graspa Group (of Soyka, Spris, and Van Dyke Café fame). It’s helmed by Treviso-born chef/owner Angelo Masarin, whose résumé includes stints at Casa Tua, Sardinia Enoteca, and Cecconi’s. Masarin believes using fewer ingredients gives him more precise control over the quality of his finished product, and he sources everything carefully, whether it be Homestead’s Paradise Farms produce, imported cheeses, or nine versions of cured meats crafted in Italy and the US. “The king,” as Masarin calls his prosciutto, includes the relatively sweet prosciutto di Parma, the harder-to-find and more nutty flavored prosciutto di San Daniele, and even a truffle-infused iteration—all treated like royalty on a hand-spun meat slicer whose slow-spinning blade never heats up, thus preserving the intended flavor profile. All of this Italian authenticity is housed in a somewhat rustic interior where ham hocks hang from the ceiling and menus are scratched out on chalkboards, while gourmet dry pastas, olive oils, sauces and vinos line the walls—now that’s the kind of clutter we can live with. 3451 NE First Ave., Miami, 305-424-9588

PHOTOGRAPH BY DARREN TRENTACOSTA

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