Ranging from sweet and spicy to fruity and bitter, Cognac’s unique flavors are explored in cocktails and food pairings. ©Jordan Hughes
From its storied history to its status in modern cocktail culture, Cognac is a versatile spirit.
“An American reclamation of cocktail culture has created a thoroughly new route as a point of access to Cognac through cocktails,” says Allen Katz, co-founder of New York Distilling Company and Cognac Educator.
Cognac in Modern Times
As Americans become more interested in exploring different flavors, Cognac provides a unique profile to enjoy in cocktails or on its own. ©BNIC / Konoisseur
The most recent milestone for Cognac is attributed to the shift in American cocktail and cooking culture that’s occurred over the past 25 years.
“As Americans, we’ve reclaimed our taste buds from plain food, canned vegetables and syrupy sweet cocktails that might be appealing to the eye but not necessarily to the palate,” Katz says.
With this growing desire to experiment with flavors and the welcomed integration of herbs, spices and unexpected ingredients into cocktails, Katz notes that Americans have adopted an “anything goes” attitude from a creative and palate standpoint.
This open-mindedness and enthusiasm have created access points for Cognac. Mixologists and home bartenders recognize Cognac’s value as a specific flavor component, and, much like wine and whiskey, connoisseurs can explore and play with different marks, ages and styles of Cognac.
“There are moments when you can enjoy Cognacs on their own and when they’re wholly applicable for usage in cocktails. There’s the opportunity to explore the regional components of where Cognac grapes are grown and what the flavor profiles are,” Katz says.
Unlimited Ways to Enjoy Cognac
While many spirit enthusiasts have their own opinions on how to drink Cognac, there’s no right or wrong way. It’s all about listening to your taste buds, but it can be difficult to know where to start. For those newer to Cognac, Katz explains that one great way to get a feel for the spirit is to create something called a “split base.”
“If I was entertaining someone who had never had a Cognac cocktail before, I might take a cocktail they’re familiar with, say an old fashioned, that’s typically made with American whiskey, but instead, I would ‘split base’ the spirits and use half American whiskey and half Cognac,” Katz says.
He explains that getting creative with cocktails and trying new flavor combinations is just like adding new ingredients while cooking to create different outcomes. Maybe once you try a split base, you can identify the unfamiliar flavors of the Cognac and decide to create a cocktail where it is the focal point.
Traditional Cognac cocktails, such as a Sidecar, are great options for people just getting into the spirit. ©Jordan Hughes
Katz also notes that trying the spirit at different temperatures and adding ice cubes or water can help individuals get a better understanding of the flavors and textures that taste best to them.
“You’re trying to create a comfort level, and it’s okay to take the edge off of the alcohol by adding a little bit of water or an ice cube or two,” Katz says.
When it comes to making a Cognac cocktail, there are two elemental properties that are familiar and widely used across all cocktail categories: acid, which typically comes from citrus, and sweetness, which can come from sugar, honey, jam, agave nectar or syrup. Once you know these two components, there are endless opportunities to play around with different ingredients.
“If I’m going to make a Cognac sour [Cognac and lemon juice], maybe I’ll incorporate apricot jam because I have this essence of apricot or peach on the nose,” Katz says. “I think that’s a fun way to pull out accent points.”
Acid and sweetness are the two most important properties to consider when making a Cognac cocktail. ©Geert Teuwen
The History
Before the Dutch came to France in the 1500s, wine was not easily transportable—the sugar in it would ferment, and the wine would lose its efficacy. Enter distillation. The Dutch used this technique to preserve their wine, and a couple centuries later, the improvement of aging methods and the introduction of double distillation created what we know as modern day Cognac.
“In the 1800s, the advent of bottles became key in the growing popularity and commercial opportunity for Cognac,” Katz says. “Rather than shipping in barrels, you could create individual bottles and ship and sell those to people rather than just merchant to merchant, whether it was over land or by sea.”
Another landmark in Cognac’s past is the outbreak of phylloxera in France in the 1870s, which devastated the roots of grapevines used to make the spirits. Vines had to be completely reintroduced, setting the growth of Cognac back many years.
After the phylloxera outbreak, it took several years for Cognac to agriculturally and economically recover. ©Benoît Linero
Fast forward to the mid-20th century, post-World War II era—the exchanging of cultural ideas brought the allure of Cognac to America, and the prominence of the spirit began to grow exponentially.
“There was interest in things like Scotch and Cognac based on Americans' experiences, particularly in Europe, overseas during the war,” Katz says. “We saw monumental exports of Cognac.”
Recipes
French 75 with Cognac
Katz recommends trading out the gin traditionally used in this bubbly cocktail with Cognac.
Add the Cognac, lemon juice and simple syrup to a shaker with ice. Shake until chilled. Strain into a champagne flute. Top with champagne, and garnish with a lemon twist.
Sidecar
Most people start out with a sidecar, Katz says, because it’s a classic sour-style drink. “It’s crisp, it’s rich, and depending on the Cognac you use, it can be a little drier or a little richer,” he says.
Add the Cognac, lemon juice and orange liquor to a shaker with ice. Shake until chilled. Strain into a glass and garnish with an orange twist.
Sazerac Cognac
One of Katz’s personal favorites, this cocktail focuses on letting the spirits shine through. “There’s something absolutely fun about combining two spirits,” he says. You can also trade out rye for other types of whiskey to play with the levels of sweetness and richness.
In a mixing glass, muddle the sugar, bitters and Absinthe. Add in the rye and Cognac. Stir with ice until chilled. Garnish with a lemon peel.
To learn more about Cognac, visit https://www.cognac.fr.
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