FENDI and London-based designer Lewis Kemmenoe unite tradition and innovation with ænigma.

London-based designer Lewis Kemmenoe and FENDI artistic director Silvia Venturini Fendi at Design Miami/ 2024

At Design Miami/ 2024, perhaps the most brilliant meeting of minds to debut was FENDI’s (fendi. com) groundbreaking collaboration with London-based designer Lewis Kemmenoe, aptly titled ænigma. The collection epitomizes the convergence of Kemmenoe’s innovative craftsmanship with FENDI’s Roman heritage. This sophisticated dialogue between designer and maison is a testament to the power of interdisciplinary inspiration and the house’s heritage of supporting artists and artisans.

Kemmenoe’s creative journey began with an immersive research process, delving into Rome’s storied museums, verdant botanical gardens, and the grandeur of FENDI’s Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana headquarters. A visit to the FENDI Factory in Tuscany further informed his vision, as he absorbed the essence of Italian artisanal excellence. The resulting ænigma collection reflects a seamless blend of Kemmenoe’s signature aesthetic and FENDI’s legacy of meticulous craftsmanship.

The title, derived from the Latin for “riddle” or “puzzle,” embodies the collection’s enigmatic allure. Each piece invites contemplation of its intricate construction. Box joints are employed as structural elements and as a canvas to subtly incorporate the iconic FENDI FF motif. A jacket pattern from FENDI’s atelier is reimagined in timber patchwork (a hallmark of Kemmenoe’s work), while the textured bark of Rome’s pine trees is immortalized in brass and aluminum. “It means something you have to discover, and that’s how I want people to interact with the collection itself,” Kemmenoe explains. “They see it at face value, but then they approach it and look into the construction of pieces and how different materials have been applied. For example, the patchwork on the chair looks like a patchwork of the timbers, and then you realize it’s a jacket pattern—so it has multiple narratives to it.”

Material duality is a recurring theme, as organic materials like timber and stone are juxtaposed with processed metals. “I’m always interested in trying to create a kind of cohesion between disparate materials,” explains Kemmenoe. The FENDI Chairs, rendered in contrasting brass and aluminum, embody this interplay, each material choice reshaping its essence. The collection features an array of pieces, including chairs, wall panels, a cabinet, lamps, a coffee table, vessels and a reimagined Peekaboo Soft bag.

The Peekaboo Soft bag is a standout, marrying FENDI’s luxury leather with Kemmenoe’s patchwork technique. A hidden wood texture revealed upon opening highlights the designer’s wit and penchant for subversive details.

In ænigma, Kemmenoe and FENDI present a collection that celebrates craftsmanship, innovation and heritage—paying homage to the timeless yet ever-evolving spirit of design.

“It means something you have to discover, and that’s how I want people to interact with the collection itself.” LEWIS KEMMENOE