By: Sarah Finkel By: Sarah Finkel | February 28, 2023 | Culture, Food & Drink,
Hailing from Brazil, Kosushi has been wowing South of Fifth diners with its temperature-based, modern Japanese fare in its first international location since 2019, continuing the 30-year legacy of excellence that Kosushi is known for in the Ipiranga neighborhood of São Paulo.
Having earned a Michelin star in Brazil for four consecutive years, Chef George Koshoji’s Kosushi melds together Brazilian and Japanese influence using the finest cuts available, prepared by masterfully-trained chefs who are well-versed in the culinary fusion of both cultures.
One of these aforementioned chefs is four-time Michelin-rated Jun Sakamoto, one of Brazil’s top sushi chefs and the special guest chef flown in to lead Kosushi’s two-night-only omakase dinner series that kicked off in November and resumes again on Feb. 28 and March 1.
While Kosushi’s traditional menu is separated into hot and cold dishes, signature nigiri-style sushi and maki, these exclusive Chef Sakamoto and Chef Koshoji dinner collabs feature two unique dinner packages taking place during an early and late seating each night. The two chefs share a close friendship in Brazil, one founded upon mutual respect and appreciation for each other’s artistry.
The omakase experience at the central sushi counter positions diners as private guests in Chef Sakamoto’s kitchen, where every deft hand movement, slice, cut and torching is visible to the eight to 10 onlookers who await their 15-course meal. On par with the meaning of the Japanese phrase omakase being “I’ll leave it up to you,” Chef Sakamoto’s selection of premium sushi items ensures guests will be served the highest caliber of bluefin tuna, Hamachi yellowtail, red snapper and more, in an intentional order without having to think twice.
In authentic omakase style, Chef Sakamoto not only entertains guests with a front row seat to the mastery of his craft, but involves each guest in conversation as though he is the host of an intimate dinner party. To be seated at Chef Sakamoto’s counter is to partake in a masterclass of sushi making at the same time as catching up with an old friend.
This is precisely what Chef Sakamoto hopes to expand upon in New York one day—a nondescript sushi “club” where only in-the-know friends would dine and share in the chef’s philosophy that quality food is the key to a happy life.
“I always hope that we make our guests happy, that's the goal in everything that I do. That involves millions of details—it's not only about delicious sushi, therefore, how I host the guests, the conversation, I always keep that in mind,” Chef Sakamoto said. “In my restaurants I try to reach that goal in everything, from architecture, music, the serveware and finally, the ingredients.”
General Manager Liliam Ma has been diligently working to hone the various components that make up a traditional omakase series in a saturated Miami market, where the integrity and prestige of the dining experience often gets lost in translation. Seasonal ingredients presented innovatively for a specific occasion is a pillar of omakase, Ma explained.
“I personally had to manage a lot of expectations, from the media side, the guest side and from my team's side because everyone wanted to know what would be served on Chef Sakamoto's omakase,” Ma said. “Although we had brought all the ingredients Chef Sakamoto wanted in a timely manner, he only settled on what he was going to serve right before we started service.”
Perhaps this spur of the moment decision is itself an indicator of the degree of authenticity one can expect from Chef Sakamoto’s omakase, which is entirely driven by the chef’s choice down to the last second.
Additionally, those looking for a sit-down experience at the regular dining tables can opt for the prix-fixe dinner that includes 10 courses, featuring several overlapping dishes from the omakase dine but at a lower price point. Sake and wine pairings are offered separately for both dinner experiences, which must be pre-paid and reserved in advance.
Most recently, star duo Chef Koshoji and Chef Sakamoto represented Kosushi at the Best of the Best walkaround tasting event at Fontainebleau Miami Beach during South Beach Wine & Food Festival, the grand precursor to their second Michelin-starred dinner series this week.
When asked about his favorite part of the sold-out series launch, Chef Sakamoto responded, “I don’t have a favorite part, the entire experience was special and surpassed my expectations. I was able to experience Miami in a different way since it was my first time doing this in the US. It was great to be able to work with some ingredients that I don't have access to in Brazil, such as the ama-ebi.”
Chef Sakamoto showcases his talent within a stately dining room that aesthetically matches Kosushi’s intricate menu and fusion of Brazilian and Japanese culture, ranging from architecture to gastronomy. Every detail is accounted for, at the hands of Brazilian architect Arthur Casas who meticulously designed the restaurant’s 360-degree woodworking without a single nail or metal connector visible—a Japanese carpentry technique. The space resembles a dome and cube at once, a play on geometry with soft light casting shadows in strategic areas of the woodwork and completing the harmony.
As far as Kosushi’s future, more Michelin-chef omakase dinners are in store, made possible by Chef Koshoji’s vast network of master chefs and culinary powerhouses in Brazil who are trained in the art of Japanese cooking.
“Brazil happens to be the home of the largest Japanese community in the world, outside of Japan. With such a large community you can imagine how Japanese cuisine is very spread and evolved in Brazil, therefore, is a fertile ground for talented Japanese chefs,” Ma said. “Being a pillar of that community, we decided to tap into Chef Koshoji's connections and invite other Michelin-star chefs to keep the series interesting and a true surprise to our guests.”
From Japan to Brazil to Miami Beach, Kosushi is a multicultural dance of flavors, texture and design. Upon entering Kosushi’s sanctuary, guests can expect to eat very well, an indication of a long and happy life to come as its name indicates (“ko" means turtle in Japanese, a symbol of longevity).
Photography by: Tarik Sparks